In the bustling kitchen of a cosy Spanish tapas resto on the corner of Jiak Chuan Road, Executive Chef Andrew Walsh gives his undivided attention to arranging a pinenut crumble around thin slices of salt-baked beetroot.
Such dedication certainly shows in Esquina Singapore’s electable tapas offerings (we love their Spanish Breakfast!), but we admit: we were keener on the chef than the food this time.
It’s really nice to meet you, Chef Andy! You started cooking at 10 and became a qualified chef at 16. What was the first dish you ever made, and how did that turn out?
The first real dish I made was an Irish potato and lamb stew, which is a classic. I used to live in a farming community and during winter, when my parents were out working, they left it to me to prepare the meals – so I was making them dinner.
Preparing dishes under the watchful eyes of your guests is pretty darn stressful. What are you like in the kitchen?
Yes, it’s a tough environment because we have an open kitchen serving tapas, so there’s a lot of plating involved. You can’t look silly in front of guests. So in the kitchen, I’m very direct. Outside service, I’m relaxed and I’m there for my chefs, but in service, it’s like going into battle. If my chefs make mistakes, I let them know about it.
Land, sea, and soil – we get the first two, but we’re intrigued with your choice of soil in Esquina’s menu. Why that element?
A lot of restaurants in Singapore have very similar menu styles, so I wanted something more unconventional and fresh. It’s a little bit more organic and natural, which is good for us, no?
What’s the most difficult dish to make on the menu?
Raw hamachi with house-cured duck. We make our own duck ham and it’s a 3-4 week process.
Cooking 24/7 is no mean feat, so please satisfy our curiosity: what’s a typical day like for you?
I wake up at 7am, check my emails and have coffee at The Plain (in Tanjong Pagar). I get to the kitchen at 8:30am and take care of the meat, the fish and sauces. Lunch service is from 12pm to 2pm. I take a break from 3pm to 4:30pm to work out. At 4:30pm, I have another coffee, and conduct a briefing with my staff at 5:30pm.
Dinner service is from 6pm to about 10:30pm / 11pm. After that, I sit down and do the daily specials for the next day, think of some new dishes, and go through our events. I leave the kitchen at 1am. And then I’m at the Cufflink Club till about 2.30am – about 5 nights out of 7!
You’ve been to (and cooked in) Dublin, London, Australia and now Singapore. Tell us which city/country’s foodie culture you love most and why.
Singapore’s food culture is up there with New York and London in my opinion. People here make eating out a part of their lifestyle, and there are so many food bloggers around. In London, people eat out less but they indulge more.
What’s it like working with Esquina’s Chef Director Jason Atherton?
He’s a mentor to me in terms of cooking, and he’s a good friend of mine too. He gives his chefs a lot of freedom and support. At Esquina, it’s my food and my creativity at work. I wasn’t going to come to Singapore and cook someone else’s food!
Are there any exciting new dishes/ingredients coming up at Esquina?
Our current menu’s quite new (it launched last December). The Spanish Breakfast has been reworked and comes in eggshells now. We now have almond granola with orange vinaigrette and our own take on cauliflower and cheese. The seared scallop and duck curry is very popular too.
When we put on a special, the customer feedback dictates whether we run that again and whether it eventually goes on the menu. A lot of our dishes start out this way. We have a great working relationship with our customers, especially the regulars.
The new space on level 2 is a stroke of genius! Whose idea was it, and what can diners look forward to?
We came up with the idea about 6 months ago, since the occupant above us was moving out. Esquina 2.0 opened last December and is a more relaxed and intimate space, good for girlie birthdays or a romantic dinner. Plus, people can reserve tables here.
You’ve been living here for about 2 years. Are there any local foods you fancy?
I enjoy a good plate of chicken rice at Maxwell Food Centre (the staff usually go down together). I like having oyster omelettes and the laksa at Beach Road too. Yes, I love spicy food. I know I’m a white guy, but I can hack it. ‘Course, I drink plenty of beer to cool down.
Do you have any pet phrases in the kitchen?
I always say “taste, taste, taste” – you need to say it three times for people to understand and do it.
If you were marooned on an island like poor Robinson Crusoe, how would you feed yourself?
I’d have to go back to what’s natural around me. I’ll get some fresh fish and scavenge for wild berries and herbs. Or maybe swim out and stab a shark, build a fire, and barbecue it – if I survive the shark, that is.
If you’re not in the kitchen, where would you be?
I’ll be in the gym during the day, and probably at The Cufflink Club or The Library at night.
What’s next in the pipeline for Esquina?
Every day is a new day here in Singapore. A lot of the restaurants take this for granted. They probably think it’s easier than it is. But you’ve got to have soul. Some just have no soul, you walk in and it feels like someone just died in there.
Will you keep doing this for the next 10-20 years (or more)?
I’m happy and lucky to have a career that’s my hobby and passion. I can’t see myself doing anything else. I suppose in the near future I’ll be a chef restaurateur; I don’t want to be like a Mick Jagger in the kitchen. I’m open to starting a resto in Singapore, London or New York – these are definitely very exciting places for me.
We’ll leave you with one last quip from Chef Andy on having an ever-growing fanbase: “The more fans the better, as long as they pay their bills.”
All images taken by Suasti Lye of Suasti Lye Photography & Design.