Bugis Street’s seedy past might be immortalised in Peter Bogdanovich’s Saint Jack, but the red-light district today – Geylang – is one of the most interesting neighbourhoods on our island. Juxtaposed against brothels, KTV lounges, and sleazy hotels are places of worships and long-standing restaurants and hawkers serving all kinds of grub including those of the exotic variety, like turtle meat, frog leg porridge, and pig organ soup. Take a walk on the “wild” side and visit the various lorongs (lanes in Malay) of this foodie heaven.
Frog legs actually taste like chicken!
Fresh Frog Porridge
The number of stalls serving frog legs in the neighbourhood is testament to its popularity. Served in claypots, this well-known joint offers chunks of frog legs in two variations – the spicy version is cooked in dried chilli and dark sweet soya sauce, while the sweet, non-spicy version has ginger and spring onions. Order a bowl of two of piping hot porridge to go with the meat for a real treat your taste buds won’t forget.
Fresh Frog Porridge, Geylang Lorong 9, Singapore 388754.
Lorong 9 Beef Noodle
Another old-timer in Geylang is the Lorong 9 Beef Kway Teow, right opposite Lion City Frog Porridge. Here, you get smooth rice noodles with tender beef slices in black bean sauce.
Lorong 9 Beef Kway Teow, 237 Geylang Lorong 9, Singapore 389296, p. 93880723.
The Ranch Café
Enjoy a hearty steak at this quaint bar and grill. The prices are extremely affordable and serving size generous – the lunch set will only set you back $6! It’s also a popular drinking place among expatriates and youths living around the area.
The Ranch Café, 71 Geylang Lorong 27, Singapore 388191, p. 6747 0788.
Wonderful Fruit Enterprise
If we had to pick one fruit that looks, feels, and smells like Southeast Asia, it’s the durian.We like our pungent durians from Wonderful Fruit Enterprise – the seller was accommodating in our search for the perfect durian, and was very willing to share his expansive knowledge on the fruit. While prices are heftier here compared to other places, you can expect better service, a generous seating space, and freely dispensed water!
Wonderful Fruit Enterprise, 147 Sims Avenue Lorong 17, Singapore 387469, p. 6474 0191.
Old Geylang
Housing three popular heritage restaurants – Old Geylang, Turtle House and Old Punggol International Seafood – this multi-concept diner serves nourishing herbal turtle soup and braised crocodile tail with mushroom. The quality of food here is really impressive and worth every penny. There’s also a durian stand here, so you don’t have to venture elsewhere for the king of fruits.
Old Geylang, 1 Geylang Lorong 23, Singapore 388352, p. 6745 1248.
Bottle Cap Café
This pet-friendly al-fresco café (yes, you can bring your furkids along!) nestled alongside the serene Geylang River serves unpretentious western grub and bottled beers.
Bottle Cap Café, 511 Guillemard Road, Singapore 399849, p. 6743 4470.
SEN Restaurant & Wine Bar is one of the better modern Vietnamese restaurants in the East
SEN Restaurant & Wine Bar
Yes, there is a chic restaurant within Geylang and it offers delicious, upscale Vietnamese food along with a vast selection of fine French wine.
SEN Restaurant & Wine Bar, 704 Geylang Road, Singapore 389620, p. 6841 5653.
Sin Huat Eating House
Listed as one of the 13 places to eat before you die by Anthony Bourdain, Chef Danny at the infamous Sin Huat Eating House is notorious for being a Food Nazi. There are no menus; prices are bordering on exorbitant; and the chef tells you what to order. But the food so good that any foodie worth his/her salt should have a taste of the awesome crab bee hoon (rice vermicelli) at least once.
Sin Huat Eating House, 659/661 Geylang Road Lorong 35, Singapore 389589, p. 6744 9755.
The Tuckshop
Put together a Singaporean, an Englishman, a Frenchman, and an Italian and you get a bistro/bar that serves a range of artisanal and craft beers from all over the world, ciders, wines and spirits, plus some really good locally-inspired bar grub. Located at an area undergoing somewhat of a renaissance, this is a cool new spot to hang out.
The Tuckshop, 403 Guillemard Road, Singapore 399795, p. 8511 8102.
Geylang 126 Eating House
Dim sum needs no introduction – and there are more than a few of these bite-sized tasty treats in Geylang. But if we had to only choose one, our pick will be Geylang 126 Eating House (commonly known as Wan Dou Sek). Practically an institution in the neighbourhood, the 24-hour dim sum joint is a hot favourite with the young crowd (spot them in clubbing gear in the wee hours) and cabbies alike.
Geylang 126 Eating House, 126 Sims Ave (between Lorong 15 and 17), Singapore 387449, p. 6746 4757.
No Signboard Seafood Restaurant
Opened during the late 1970s; No Signboard Seafood Restaurant is now a household name among Chinese families when it comes to having seafood in Singapore. A must-order is their unique white pepper crab that’s stir-fried in white pepper sauce and garnished with spring onions.
No Signboard Seafood Restaurant, 414 Geylang Road, Singapore 389392, p. 6842 3415.
Swee Guan Hokkien Mee
Considered by many as the gold standard of Hokkien mee, Swee Guan Hokkien Mee is still cooked over charcoal – a rarity! The noodles are flavourful and jam-packed with prawns, squid, and crispy lard.
Swee Guan Hokkien Mee, 549 Geylang Road, Singapore 389504.
Succulent roast meat from Char
Char
If you have a soft spot for awesome roast meats, make Char one of your pit stops. This heartland resto has ambitiously claimed to serve up the best Cantonese roast in Singapore, and they don’t disappoint. Choose from the four main roasts – duck, crispy pork belly, honey barbequed pork, and soy sauce chicken – and complete your meal with a slew of seafood, vegetables, and rice dishes. Chase it all down with a bottle of craft beer from their (surprisingly) European-label-heavy alcohol menu.
Char, 393 Guillemard Road, Singapore 399790, p. 6842 7759.
Little Vietnam
You know a restaurant is good when it’s packed by 6pm on weekdays. Run by a Vietnamese family, this place serves authentic Viet grub that satisfies even the most homesick Vietnamese. Everything on the menu is tasty; although our favourite is their grilled quail and freshly baked bahn mi.
Little Vietnam, 511 Guillemard Road, Singapore 399849, p. 6547 8587.
Arnold’s Fried Chicken
Serving us finger-lickin’ fried chicken since 1984, this Halal eatery is popular amongst local families and Indonesian expats alike – there’s always a long queue during dinner! Order their chicken combo and sink your teeth into their juicy, crispy wings; it’s certainly worth the calories.
Arnold’s Fried Chicken, #02-99 City Plaza, 810 Geylang Road, Singapore 409286, p. 6746 2372.
Cheng Mun Chee Kee Pig Organ Soup
Pig organ soup chain Cheng Mun Chee Kee is well-known for their peppery soup, which you can constantly refill without a fee. Swing by for a comforting bowl after a boozy night; the stall closes at 3am.
Cheng Mun Chee Kee, 747 Geylang Road Lorong 39, Singapore 389654, p. 6746 6693.
City Plaza
A well-kept secret amongst teenagers, this old mall holds a treasure trove of high-fashion knock-offs as well as cheap blogshop apparels. In fact, a handful of blog shops get their supplies from here. There are also a handful of salons that does good hair and eyelash extension too; you no longer need to travel for Far East Plaza for fake locks!
City Plaza, 810 Geylang Road, Singapore 409286.
Geyang Serai Market
Singapore has its fair share of great wet markets, and if you live in the East, the one in Geylang Serai Wet Market is well worth a gander. Geylang Serai gets its name from the location, which was formerly a lemongrass (serai) field. Situated in the Malay Heritage District near Paya Lebar MRT, the Geylang Serai market is best known amongst locals as a one-stop shop for wet and dry sundries, clothes, traditional medicine, and of course, tasty Malay cuisine.
Read our full guide to the Geylang Serai Wet Market.
Fansida Wine & Dine
Another semi-fine dining restaurant in the ‘hood, Fansida Wine and Dine does quality European dishes at reasonable prices. There’s also ample of free parking spaces, which is always a major plus in our books!
Fansida Wine & Dine, Fansida Building, 46 Geylang Lorong 23 , Singapore 388375, p. 6841 7770.